well, folks, it's rally time again.
this time it's pâte à choux. if you feel the need to utter "gesundheit", then let me explain. chances are you've eaten pâte à choux and liked it... basically, it's a cream puff dough that is used to make eclairs, profiteroles and a multitude of other puffy delights, both sweet and savory. the hardest thing about this dough is pronouncing it.
here are
ruhlman's words about it:
"
A versatile dough of flour, water, butter and eggs distinguished by the fact that the flour is combined with the butter and water and partially cooked before the eggs are added to it. The resulting dough, which can be sweet or savory, puffs when it bakes and so has a light and elegant texture in and of itself and a neutral, eggy flavor that carries more assertive savory and sweet flavors well."
if you're asking who ruhlman is, he's the ratio guy and the inspiration (of sorts) for the rally. previously we've used his ratios to make pancakes,
quick breads and
scones. his ratio for pâte à choux is
1 part flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part fat: 2 parts egg.
the options of recipes made from this dough were so limitless it was hard to decide. initially, i was going to show a bit of self-control and go for a savory. i'll be the first to admit the sweets section of my
recipes page is a little long compared to the others.
gougères are the savory version of a cream puff, typically involving cheese that is stirred into the dough. i decided to a be a little unorthodox and stir in a few more goodies. the flavor combination of sharp cheddar, sweet dates and earthy pine nuts are sure to please. the weight of the dates and pine nuts do keep it from rising to a perfect ball, but that's a sacrifice i was willing to make. my ratio for the gougères varied slightly from the one listed above, in order to allow the dough to puff and not fall flat. it is
1 part flour: 1.5 parts liquid: 1 part fat: 1.5 parts egg.
Cheddar Gougères with Dates and Pine Nuts
38 grams brown rice flour
38 grams sweet rice flour
19 grams potato starch
19 grams tapioca starch
4 ounces unsalted butter, cut into pieces
3 ounces milk
3 ounces water
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
50 grams (about 1/3 cup) finely chopped dates
44 grams (about 1/3 cup) toasted pine nuts
100 grams (about 1 cups) shredded sharp cheddar, divided
1. Preheat oven to 425`. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. Combine flours and set aside. Combine butter, water and salt in a large saucepan; bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add flour mixture; stir with a wooden spoon until smooth. Cool slightly.
3. Beat in eggs, one at a time, using an electric mixer at medium speed. Mix until batter comes together and is smooth. Stir in dates, pine nuts and all but 3 tablespoons of cheese. Spoon batter into a gallon-size zip-lock bag. Freeze for 15 minutes.
4. Snip a hole in the bottom corner of zip-lock bag, large enough to allow batter through. Squeeze mixture into golf-ball sized balls onto parchment sheets about 2 inches apart. Sprinkle with remaining cheddar cheese. Refrigerate remaining dough while baking the first batch. Bake at 425 for 10 minutes.
5. Reduce heat to 350` and bake until done, about 10 additional minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool. Repeat with remaining dough. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Yield: about 2 dozen
but i couldn't stop there. i broke down. i couldn't not make a sweet pâte à choux...
so a danish puff it is. this one's a pâte à choux dough scented with almond that is spread on top of a butter crust. top that with a sweet glaze, toasted almonds and fresh cherries. once again, my ratio is a bit different. it is
1.5 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part fat: 1.5 parts egg.
Danish Puffs
4 ounces butter, cut into small pieces
250 grams gluten-free flour (about 1 2/3 cups), tested with King Arthur
4 1/2 tablespoons cold water
4 ounces butter, cut into pieces
1 cup water
145 grams gluten-free flour (about 1 cup), tested with King Arthur
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon almond extract
2/3 cup powdered sugar
8 tablespoons heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds
1 1/2 cups fresh cherries (or berries of your choice)
1. Preheat oven to 350`. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Cut butter into flour with a pastry cutter or fingers until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add cold water, a tablespoon at a time, adding more if needed, until dough comes together in a ball. Cover and chill.
3. Combine butter and water in a large saucepan; bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add flour mixture; stir with a wooden spoon until smooth. Cool slightly.
4. Beat in eggs, one at a time, using an electric mixer at medium speed. Beat in almond extract. Split chilled pastry ball in halves; roll out onto parchment paper into two 12- x 3-inch strips. Spread choux mixture over pastry strips, leaving a 1/4-inch border.
5. Bake at 350` for 1 hour, or until puffed and browned.
6. Combine powdered sugar and next 2 ingredients. Drizzle evenly over both puffs; top with sliced almonds and fresh pitted cherries. Slice and enjoy warm or room temperature.
Yield: 2 puffs.


many thanks to the impressively organized and incredibly knowledgeable erin from
the sensitive epicure for hosting this month. please feel free to check out the following contributions to the rally. there's certainly a delectable variety to thumb through!